Blueprint Special (CITY)
The burger at Prune is famous. When Gabrielle Hamilton announced that her downtown Manhattan restaurant, known for simple-done-perfect dishes like sardines on Triscuits and monkfish liver on toast, would serve lunch, the burger was the thing to have.
There was just one problem when I went to try it. It comes on an English muffin. I don’t like English muffins. There’s something about the dryness of their texture, the almost-metallic dullness of their taste, and the particular way they both soak up and repel moisture that gets right to the heart of my morbid fear of wet bread. So I asked for it on a roll. “No substitutions.” I kicked myself for even asking.
And then it arrived: a sphere of burger right in the middle of two almost completely flat discs (the photos here are more an artistic interpretation than the real thing, which is impossible to replicate). I didn’t know where to start. Press the ends of the discs together and take the first bite burgerless? Pull the sphere towards the end, which would mean the first bite was full of ground beef and lamb (the not-secret secret) and the last just, ew, soggy bread?
Somehow I got through it. Blissfully, in fact. The English muffin was wet already with butter so the terror of moisture was mitigated by my affection for fat, and the burger flattened out, and then the bacon grabbed onto those little English muffin pockets, and there was just enough room for it on its long wooden platter, and I realized that for all my skepticism, this was a perfectly designed dish.