Published July 2007 (link)
It takes me three times around the block to find the place. We jump from the 1600s to the 1800s, from the BP gas station at the corner of Halsted and West North to the Black Duck Tavern on Halsted and Willow. I know we are looking for 1723 North Halsted, the address embedded in my memory the way the chef’s resume—French Laundry, Trio, here—is. We turn around, turn into the parking lot of the Steppenwolf Theatre, curve back around, again, and this time we’re slow enough at 1721—a children’s dentist, an unlikely neighbor—to catch the Valet Parking sign. Right next door, we find it: a two-story black brick bay-fronted building, the place I’ve been waiting for the last two years to visit: Alinea.
We are early, of course. (Late? To this place?) Someone has already told me about the door, how it slides open like a Star Trek bulkhead, so I’m expecting something a little different, a lot unusual. I’m not expecting the forced-perspective rabbit hole of an entryway, all scalloped walls and glowing red light, which slopes down and angles in, ending on a sculpture of horizontally suspended steel pins, pieces that will make at least one more encore. I feel like I’m in a combination of Alice in Wonderland and Battlestar Galactica and, once through the faux-elevator doors, like I’m in an otherworldly townhouse that bends to one man’s rules. I am. It does. “Chef would like to meet you.” I panic. I am Alice, and I am falling. I’m just not so sure I’m ready.